Monday, March 31, 2008
This is how little Spanish kids are dressed- I can just hear my Mom rejoicing now
Looks like something from the 1950's right?
Random pics
Some random pictures of myself, and one of Marion, my closest friend here. Also a picture of a wall in my room, and a picture of the entrance to my apartment building, looking out onto the street.
Sunset from my rooftop
These are pictures that i took of the sunset on my apartment's rooftop. I also included a picture of my street that has a massive flower tree hanging over it. Awesome!
Semana Santa Pics
These are pictures of the processions during Semana Santa (Holy Week). No, the figures are NOT Klu Klux Klan....they are called nazarenos, and they signify repentance. I was fascinated by them and took many pictures. all of the processions that i saw were very moving- if any of you get the chance to see Seville during Semana Santa- DO IT!!!
BTW: the picture that is 3rd from the bottom isn't meant to be in this entry- it is actually from Extremadura (it is a picture of my coworker on the right and her friend on the left) but i don't know how to take it out because my computer is being all weird. oh well.
Thursday, March 27, 2008
Q & A for future Language and Culture Assistants part II
What is a typical weekday like for you?
Well, most days I get up around 7:30am and am out of the house by 8:00am. I walk 20 minutes to the train station, then I take a 20 minute train ride to Brenes. I have breakfast at the school bar and then have anywhere between 3 and 5 classes. Some of these classes I spend in front of a classroom of students, and other times I work one on one with the professors from the Computer Science department. I am usually out of the institute by 1pm, and take the train back home to Seville. I eat lunch at home, except on Thursdays when i give lessons to my boss' (Almudena's) children and then eat lunch (the main meal of the day) with her family afterwards. I then go to my various private lessons that I have around the city. After I'm done I call up my friend Marion and we go to a cafe or a sunny plaza and talk for awhile, or I go to her house. Often I will sit up on my rooftop and watch the sun go down behind the cathedral. I have dinner at about 9 or 10pm. Then I do my lesson plans for the next morning, tool around on my computer, and go to bed at about 12am.
What type of living situation do you recommend?
I definitely recommend trying your hardest to live with Spaniards or at least people from other countries. I just don't understand why many Americans insist on living with other Americans while in Spain. First of all, living with Americans is something that you can do back home. Take this opportunity to live with people from other countries. It is a great way to gain cultural understanding, and its a great way to meet new people! Also, if you only live with other Americans then you will only speak English. To be able to live in Spain for a year is a great gift, so why not use this time wisely to practice your Spanish? You'll return to the US with a polished and important skill that will undoubtedly boost your resume.
How much Spanish do I really need to know before I go to Spain?
Techinally you need to have a "high intermediate" understanding of Spanish to participate in the program, but there are people on the program that have less than that. Within the European spectrum, Spain as at the tail-end of English comprehension (partly due to, in my opinion, dubbing american t.v. and movies instead of subtitling them) so you will not find a lot of Spaniards who speak fluent English. So bone up on your Spanish before arriving, but know that you will definitely improve your Spanish within the year that you are here.
Also, be aware that in Andalucia they have a very distinct accent that can be very very confusing to outsiders. Most Andalucians don't pronounce the "s" in words and swallow the end of their words, and it takes a LOT of getting used to. So don't be surprised if you don't know what the heck anyone is saying when you first arrive. don't worry though, you will acclimate.
Can you elaborate a bit on the cost of living in Seville?
Yeah, sure, I can elaborate a bit. Here are the average prices for some random things. Remember that one euro = $1.50 USD
Baguette (French loaf of bread) = .75 euro cents
small beer or glass of wine in a bar = 1.10 euros
small soft drink in a bar = 1.30 euros
liter of water from a supermarket = .40 euro cents
basic Bic pen = 90 cents
haircut (wash, cut, style) = 20 euros
regular-sized bath towel = 10-15 euros
normal bottle of Loreal foundation = 19 euros
basic 53-piece China plate set = 463 euros
okay i know you aren't going to buy a 53-piece china set in spain, but i just wanted to share that with you. i saw that yesterday in a store window in a mom-and-pops store. it was really ugly china too. 463 euros for that? seriously, that's insane. anyway, if you want to see an more complete list of costs, visit exploreseville.com.
Should I bring my laptop?
Yes, I think so. Before, when I was advising for Spain at the University of Iowa OfSA, I always told students who were going to study abroad that it wasn't a good idea to bring it along. It is too much of a liability, Liz and I would say. But now that in-house internet is pretty much the norm here, I think it is a good idea. My laptop as proven to be an extremely useful, informative and entertaining resource and I don't know what I would have done without it. plus, it saves on spending way to much money at an internet cafe. those things drain your pockets QUICKLY.
a word of advice though- don't carry your laptop around. I never, ever, take it out of my house. That way the liability issue isn't one at all.
I asked to be placed in a big city (Seville, Granada, Cordoba, Malaga) but they put me in a tiny town in the middle of nowhere! What should I do?
I remember last year holding my breath and crossing my fingers and hoping and hoping that I would be placed in Seville, where I had requested to be. Though I was actually placed to work in the tiny town of Brenes, I was luckly to be only a short 20 minute train-ride from Seville, so this allowed me to live in the city. I lucked out, but I remember getting mass emails from other program participants who had asked for a big city but didn't recieve it. everyday i would get very annoying emails pleading "Help! i'm in a small little town in the middle of nowhere and I want to live in Granada/Sevilla/Malaga! Does anyone placed in Granada/Sevilla/Malaga want to switch with me?" Wow. Do those people really think that anyone is really going to switch with them? Anyway, if this happens to you, I recommend that you do the following:
Check your location on a map: it is quite likely that you are somewhere near a bigger town or city. If you are under an hour's train or bus ride to the big city, you could definitely live in that big city. Spain's public transportation is efficient and cheap.
Deal with it: If your tiny town is farther than 1 hour away from a major city, don't despair. There are a lot of really great things about living in small towns. First of all, you will become a little mini-celeb in your town and befriend a lot of locals, which is the most desirable experience. Your Spanish will definitely improve more than those who live in a city, since you will be a bit more isolated then them. And you won't have to deal with hordes of tourists. Your cost of living will be MUCH lower. You'll never be too far from a big city or a beach. Think of the positives. And remember that no matter where you are placed, you are going to have a great year!
Well, most days I get up around 7:30am and am out of the house by 8:00am. I walk 20 minutes to the train station, then I take a 20 minute train ride to Brenes. I have breakfast at the school bar and then have anywhere between 3 and 5 classes. Some of these classes I spend in front of a classroom of students, and other times I work one on one with the professors from the Computer Science department. I am usually out of the institute by 1pm, and take the train back home to Seville. I eat lunch at home, except on Thursdays when i give lessons to my boss' (Almudena's) children and then eat lunch (the main meal of the day) with her family afterwards. I then go to my various private lessons that I have around the city. After I'm done I call up my friend Marion and we go to a cafe or a sunny plaza and talk for awhile, or I go to her house. Often I will sit up on my rooftop and watch the sun go down behind the cathedral. I have dinner at about 9 or 10pm. Then I do my lesson plans for the next morning, tool around on my computer, and go to bed at about 12am.
What type of living situation do you recommend?
I definitely recommend trying your hardest to live with Spaniards or at least people from other countries. I just don't understand why many Americans insist on living with other Americans while in Spain. First of all, living with Americans is something that you can do back home. Take this opportunity to live with people from other countries. It is a great way to gain cultural understanding, and its a great way to meet new people! Also, if you only live with other Americans then you will only speak English. To be able to live in Spain for a year is a great gift, so why not use this time wisely to practice your Spanish? You'll return to the US with a polished and important skill that will undoubtedly boost your resume.
How much Spanish do I really need to know before I go to Spain?
Techinally you need to have a "high intermediate" understanding of Spanish to participate in the program, but there are people on the program that have less than that. Within the European spectrum, Spain as at the tail-end of English comprehension (partly due to, in my opinion, dubbing american t.v. and movies instead of subtitling them) so you will not find a lot of Spaniards who speak fluent English. So bone up on your Spanish before arriving, but know that you will definitely improve your Spanish within the year that you are here.
Also, be aware that in Andalucia they have a very distinct accent that can be very very confusing to outsiders. Most Andalucians don't pronounce the "s" in words and swallow the end of their words, and it takes a LOT of getting used to. So don't be surprised if you don't know what the heck anyone is saying when you first arrive. don't worry though, you will acclimate.
Can you elaborate a bit on the cost of living in Seville?
Yeah, sure, I can elaborate a bit. Here are the average prices for some random things. Remember that one euro = $1.50 USD
Baguette (French loaf of bread) = .75 euro cents
small beer or glass of wine in a bar = 1.10 euros
small soft drink in a bar = 1.30 euros
liter of water from a supermarket = .40 euro cents
basic Bic pen = 90 cents
haircut (wash, cut, style) = 20 euros
regular-sized bath towel = 10-15 euros
normal bottle of Loreal foundation = 19 euros
basic 53-piece China plate set = 463 euros
okay i know you aren't going to buy a 53-piece china set in spain, but i just wanted to share that with you. i saw that yesterday in a store window in a mom-and-pops store. it was really ugly china too. 463 euros for that? seriously, that's insane. anyway, if you want to see an more complete list of costs, visit exploreseville.com.
Should I bring my laptop?
Yes, I think so. Before, when I was advising for Spain at the University of Iowa OfSA, I always told students who were going to study abroad that it wasn't a good idea to bring it along. It is too much of a liability, Liz and I would say. But now that in-house internet is pretty much the norm here, I think it is a good idea. My laptop as proven to be an extremely useful, informative and entertaining resource and I don't know what I would have done without it. plus, it saves on spending way to much money at an internet cafe. those things drain your pockets QUICKLY.
a word of advice though- don't carry your laptop around. I never, ever, take it out of my house. That way the liability issue isn't one at all.
I asked to be placed in a big city (Seville, Granada, Cordoba, Malaga) but they put me in a tiny town in the middle of nowhere! What should I do?
I remember last year holding my breath and crossing my fingers and hoping and hoping that I would be placed in Seville, where I had requested to be. Though I was actually placed to work in the tiny town of Brenes, I was luckly to be only a short 20 minute train-ride from Seville, so this allowed me to live in the city. I lucked out, but I remember getting mass emails from other program participants who had asked for a big city but didn't recieve it. everyday i would get very annoying emails pleading "Help! i'm in a small little town in the middle of nowhere and I want to live in Granada/Sevilla/Malaga! Does anyone placed in Granada/Sevilla/Malaga want to switch with me?" Wow. Do those people really think that anyone is really going to switch with them? Anyway, if this happens to you, I recommend that you do the following:
Check your location on a map: it is quite likely that you are somewhere near a bigger town or city. If you are under an hour's train or bus ride to the big city, you could definitely live in that big city. Spain's public transportation is efficient and cheap.
Deal with it: If your tiny town is farther than 1 hour away from a major city, don't despair. There are a lot of really great things about living in small towns. First of all, you will become a little mini-celeb in your town and befriend a lot of locals, which is the most desirable experience. Your Spanish will definitely improve more than those who live in a city, since you will be a bit more isolated then them. And you won't have to deal with hordes of tourists. Your cost of living will be MUCH lower. You'll never be too far from a big city or a beach. Think of the positives. And remember that no matter where you are placed, you are going to have a great year!
Monday, March 24, 2008
Q&A for Future Language and Culture Assistants part I
What exactly does the job entail?
The job of a Language and Culture assistant is essentially bringing your native American background into the Spanish educational system. Inside the class, you are not a teacher. In fact, you are technically never to be alone with a class (though these rules can (and have been) bent) and basically you lend your native accent to the class. you are also expected to talk about your culture and share your cultural norms, etc.
How many hours does it require?
The position of a language and culture assistant is 12 hours a week, and from my experience, they seem to be pretty strict about not going over that limit.
How much preparation is needed?
You don't need to be experienced in teaching, you basically just have to be a native English speaker. My advice: bring a good English grammar book for reference!
What is the working environment like?
This varies from place to place, but my personal experience has been great. there are about 80 teachers total working at my school, and although i don't know all of them, i have become quite close with several of them. i find the work environment to be very informal- the professor's lounge is a social gathering and is usually full of chatter.
What are the students like?
When I first came to Spain, I had this image in my mind of snotty little Spanish kids who wanted nothing to do with a spoiled little American girl. Before starting my job, i met with one of my future co-workers. he scared he half to death (and probably jokingly) and told me to be serious with the kids or they would eat me alive. Well, I am not exactly a serious person so I was a bit nervous. It turns out I had nothing to be afraid of. I acted like my crazy, energetic self and they loved me for it. I feel like a celebrity when they gather around the railings and say "HELLO OBRIIIIII!" as i pass by. they have been nothing but enthusiastic about getting to know me, where I'm from, what i think about this and that, etc. I genuinely love those kids and they are what makes this job so awesome.
What is the dress code?
The dress code is way lax. Wear jeans, t-shirts, sweaters, sweatshirts, whatever you like.
What should classroom tools should I bring with me?
I recommend bringing a good grammar book (for private tutoring lessons.....more on this later), maps and pictures of your hometown, pictures of your family and friends (great for a unit on family members), cds of american music, movies, children's books. and finally.....AMERICAN CANDY. it is the way to a spanish child's heart. :)
630 euros a month isn't a lot. How do you survive?
Although you are techinally "not allowed" to take on another job, you will soon find that private english lessons are a ludcrative and cash-in-hand-extracurricular kind of job. Post some well-constructed signs advertising your native english skills and the offers will come flying in. I charge no less than 12 euros an hour (about 17 dollars an hour) and in some special cases I am paid up to 30 euros an hour (43 dollars). it is entirely possible for one to make an additional 150 euros a week (on top of your base 630...which by the way will increase to 700 euros for 2008-09 year) and still have time to enjoy the delights of Andalucia. The only downside to private tutoring is reliability... cancelling is a commonpractice among students, so a set income isn't always guarenteed.
What about holidays?
This is one of the many perks of the job. You get at least 2 weeks for Christmas, and 1 week for Semana Santa (in March or April). Both are paid. Plus there are many national and local holidays in Spain, and the 3 or 4-day weekend is common practice. All are paid.
What about housing?
I highly recommend trying to arrange housing beforehand or coming early and arranging something. For those who will be living in Seville: I rented from an amazing agency called Roomates Sevilla
and found a great shared apartment in the middle of the city for a great price.
I DO NOT RECOMMEND coming just days before you start work and thinking you will find something off the bat. Usually not so. I have known people who have spent weeks sleeping in hostals or hotels, looking and looking for an apartment, only to find an overpriced place in an out-of-the-way neighborhood. PLAN AHEAD.
What is the cost of living like?
Europe is more expensive due to the decline in the US dollar. Fortunately for you (those who will go to Andalucia) southern Spain is one of the best bargains in Western Europe. I live in a big, bright, centralized, shared apartment for 265 euros a month including WIFI. Including rent, i am able to live comfortably on 700 euros a month in (what the pay for a 2008-09 Language and Culture Assistant will be) without traveling on weekends. Any extra money made by private tutoring lessons can be saved or used for traveling (or shopping!)
The job of a Language and Culture assistant is essentially bringing your native American background into the Spanish educational system. Inside the class, you are not a teacher. In fact, you are technically never to be alone with a class (though these rules can (and have been) bent) and basically you lend your native accent to the class. you are also expected to talk about your culture and share your cultural norms, etc.
How many hours does it require?
The position of a language and culture assistant is 12 hours a week, and from my experience, they seem to be pretty strict about not going over that limit.
How much preparation is needed?
You don't need to be experienced in teaching, you basically just have to be a native English speaker. My advice: bring a good English grammar book for reference!
What is the working environment like?
This varies from place to place, but my personal experience has been great. there are about 80 teachers total working at my school, and although i don't know all of them, i have become quite close with several of them. i find the work environment to be very informal- the professor's lounge is a social gathering and is usually full of chatter.
What are the students like?
When I first came to Spain, I had this image in my mind of snotty little Spanish kids who wanted nothing to do with a spoiled little American girl. Before starting my job, i met with one of my future co-workers. he scared he half to death (and probably jokingly) and told me to be serious with the kids or they would eat me alive. Well, I am not exactly a serious person so I was a bit nervous. It turns out I had nothing to be afraid of. I acted like my crazy, energetic self and they loved me for it. I feel like a celebrity when they gather around the railings and say "HELLO OBRIIIIII!" as i pass by. they have been nothing but enthusiastic about getting to know me, where I'm from, what i think about this and that, etc. I genuinely love those kids and they are what makes this job so awesome.
What is the dress code?
The dress code is way lax. Wear jeans, t-shirts, sweaters, sweatshirts, whatever you like.
What should classroom tools should I bring with me?
I recommend bringing a good grammar book (for private tutoring lessons.....more on this later), maps and pictures of your hometown, pictures of your family and friends (great for a unit on family members), cds of american music, movies, children's books. and finally.....AMERICAN CANDY. it is the way to a spanish child's heart. :)
630 euros a month isn't a lot. How do you survive?
Although you are techinally "not allowed" to take on another job, you will soon find that private english lessons are a ludcrative and cash-in-hand-extracurricular kind of job. Post some well-constructed signs advertising your native english skills and the offers will come flying in. I charge no less than 12 euros an hour (about 17 dollars an hour) and in some special cases I am paid up to 30 euros an hour (43 dollars). it is entirely possible for one to make an additional 150 euros a week (on top of your base 630...which by the way will increase to 700 euros for 2008-09 year) and still have time to enjoy the delights of Andalucia. The only downside to private tutoring is reliability... cancelling is a commonpractice among students, so a set income isn't always guarenteed.
What about holidays?
This is one of the many perks of the job. You get at least 2 weeks for Christmas, and 1 week for Semana Santa (in March or April). Both are paid. Plus there are many national and local holidays in Spain, and the 3 or 4-day weekend is common practice. All are paid.
What about housing?
I highly recommend trying to arrange housing beforehand or coming early and arranging something. For those who will be living in Seville: I rented from an amazing agency called Roomates Sevilla
and found a great shared apartment in the middle of the city for a great price.
I DO NOT RECOMMEND coming just days before you start work and thinking you will find something off the bat. Usually not so. I have known people who have spent weeks sleeping in hostals or hotels, looking and looking for an apartment, only to find an overpriced place in an out-of-the-way neighborhood. PLAN AHEAD.
What is the cost of living like?
Europe is more expensive due to the decline in the US dollar. Fortunately for you (those who will go to Andalucia) southern Spain is one of the best bargains in Western Europe. I live in a big, bright, centralized, shared apartment for 265 euros a month including WIFI. Including rent, i am able to live comfortably on 700 euros a month in (what the pay for a 2008-09 Language and Culture Assistant will be) without traveling on weekends. Any extra money made by private tutoring lessons can be saved or used for traveling (or shopping!)
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
Mom Jeans
I accidently came across this video on YouTube and it is the funniest thing ever! You must check it out:
Spain does it different....a few examples
Obviously there are some big differences between Spain and the U.S- the most notable things being the language, the food, the siesta, etc. But there are also many little differences as well, and I want to share a few random observations with you:
- in Spain, when you to go a tapas bar, you stand up and eat at the bar. also, feel free to throw all your napkins on the floor. you know if a locale is extra good if there are lots of napkins scattered on ground.
- from what i have gathered, Spainards generally do not recycle aluminum cans.
-Diet Coke is expensive. Seriously. Expect to pay up to 1.50 euros at a bar (they still come in tiny glass bottles here) or 44 euro cents per can in the supermarket. that's around $2.20 for a small glass of Diet Coke in a bar (no free refills) or about $.60 per can at the supermarket.
- in women's public restooms, the seat is always left up. as to why, i have no idea. this still puzzles me.
-when watching a television show, instead of having several short commerical breaks, they will have one extra long commerical break, of about 10 minutes. this way, you can get up and go get something to eat or whatever. Most movie theatres have intermissions as well.
-Spain continues to be a smoker's paradise. people light up just about everywhere. this morning i visited a medical laboratory to have some blood drawn. in the tiny waiting room i counted 6 ashtrays.
-hoping you'll have a clothes dryer in your apartment? think again. most don't, which require you to hang your wash on the rooftop of your apt. building (recommended) or hang them on your balcony (not recommended)
more to come....
- in Spain, when you to go a tapas bar, you stand up and eat at the bar. also, feel free to throw all your napkins on the floor. you know if a locale is extra good if there are lots of napkins scattered on ground.
- from what i have gathered, Spainards generally do not recycle aluminum cans.
-Diet Coke is expensive. Seriously. Expect to pay up to 1.50 euros at a bar (they still come in tiny glass bottles here) or 44 euro cents per can in the supermarket. that's around $2.20 for a small glass of Diet Coke in a bar (no free refills) or about $.60 per can at the supermarket.
- in women's public restooms, the seat is always left up. as to why, i have no idea. this still puzzles me.
-when watching a television show, instead of having several short commerical breaks, they will have one extra long commerical break, of about 10 minutes. this way, you can get up and go get something to eat or whatever. Most movie theatres have intermissions as well.
-Spain continues to be a smoker's paradise. people light up just about everywhere. this morning i visited a medical laboratory to have some blood drawn. in the tiny waiting room i counted 6 ashtrays.
-hoping you'll have a clothes dryer in your apartment? think again. most don't, which require you to hang your wash on the rooftop of your apt. building (recommended) or hang them on your balcony (not recommended)
more to come....
Monday, March 17, 2008
El Chiki Chiki- Spanish phenomenon
Check this video out for the Chiki Chiki dance.....a silly guy who made this hilarious song that is wildly popular right now.
The dance is actually pretty funny.
Four steps:
1. el Brekindance (Break dance)
2. el Crusadito (Cross step)
3. el Maquelyakson (Michael Jackson)
4. el Robocop (Robot dance)
The guy's hair cracks me up!
The dance is actually pretty funny.
Four steps:
1. el Brekindance (Break dance)
2. el Crusadito (Cross step)
3. el Maquelyakson (Michael Jackson)
4. el Robocop (Robot dance)
The guy's hair cracks me up!
Semana Santa in Seville
hey everyone!
i'm writing this entry to you on a lazy, late monday morning. yes, that's right, i got to sleep in today because it's Semana Santa (Holy Week) in Spain and I get the entire week off. paid. and it just so happens that Holy Week in Seville is the most extravagent and amazing festival of its kind in the world!
Most Sevillians prefer to leave the city during this week, and I can understand- there are crowds and tourists everywhere. if you live in the city center, as i do, it can be very difficult to navigate your own streets. but since i have never experienced Holy Week before, I am determined to brave the crowds and enjoy the processions.
So what is Semana Santa in Seville? Basically it is a week of elaborate processions of intricate "floats" (well, they aren't really floats, they are heavy at about 4000 lbs. at least and are carried throughout the town by about 40 men who are hidden underneath the float). The "floats" (I really don't like using that word but i can't think of another one) depict Jesus and Mary and are very intricately decorated with velvet, gold, flowers and lots of candles. every float is preceeded and followed by nazarenos, people cloaked in a traditional costume of repentence (it bears quite a resemblance to the KKK). there are also priests that swing incense everywhere, and a band in front of the float that plays music. there are 60 processions of this during Holy Week, one for almost every church in the city (i believe). You need to obtain a guide (found at any kiosk or supermarket) to know which procession is where and when, etc. All processions leave from their church, make their way through the downtown and towards the cathedral, then go back to their church. a procession ends with them placing the float down in it's place at their church where it won't be touched until the next year. Some churches that are far away from the downtown so their processions can last up to 12 hours. those poor men underneath the floats!
i saw my first procession last night. i didn't go seeking one out though, it came to me! i was with my friend marion at a bodega near my home, and one passed by. marion and i started snapping pictures like crazy, but unfortunately i can't show you any pics until the end of the week, when i will be able to convert everything to a disc.
anyway it is a very moving experience and some of the processions are en silenco, so you can hear a pin drop as they pass by. others are most joyful. you will hear people crying out "guapa! guapa!" (which means "beautiful") to the Virgen Mary.
Living in Seville, it is interesting to see the work that goes into preparing for Holy Week. I have witnessed many times the bands practicing their music in the street, or the men carrying a "practice float".
Some people are real Semana Santa- afecionados. I had to chuckle to myself in the weeks prior to Holy Week because in supermarkets they would play music from the bands and have big offers on Holy Week DVDs. One sweeping store promotion said "Special set! 8 DVDs plus 4 CDs of band music!" As to why someone would want to watch 8 DVDs of processions is beyond me. Don't get me wrong, the processions are interesting, but 8 DVDs and 4 CDs worth of it? come on!
Spring in Seville really has sprung, at it is amazing at the very least. The orange trees have blossomed, and the flowers, called azahar, smell amazing. and the entire city smells of this. also there are jasmine trees that have blossomed and they smell so good. in some parts of seville and in brenes, there are lemon trees. have you ever smelled a fresh lemon blossom before? absolutely amazing.
combine those smells with the smell of incense and candle wax, and its pretty magical.
anyway i will keep you updated on what i see this week. i look forward to having a week with nothing to do but hang out and wander about in my own city.
Hasta ahora!
i'm writing this entry to you on a lazy, late monday morning. yes, that's right, i got to sleep in today because it's Semana Santa (Holy Week) in Spain and I get the entire week off. paid. and it just so happens that Holy Week in Seville is the most extravagent and amazing festival of its kind in the world!
Most Sevillians prefer to leave the city during this week, and I can understand- there are crowds and tourists everywhere. if you live in the city center, as i do, it can be very difficult to navigate your own streets. but since i have never experienced Holy Week before, I am determined to brave the crowds and enjoy the processions.
So what is Semana Santa in Seville? Basically it is a week of elaborate processions of intricate "floats" (well, they aren't really floats, they are heavy at about 4000 lbs. at least and are carried throughout the town by about 40 men who are hidden underneath the float). The "floats" (I really don't like using that word but i can't think of another one) depict Jesus and Mary and are very intricately decorated with velvet, gold, flowers and lots of candles. every float is preceeded and followed by nazarenos, people cloaked in a traditional costume of repentence (it bears quite a resemblance to the KKK). there are also priests that swing incense everywhere, and a band in front of the float that plays music. there are 60 processions of this during Holy Week, one for almost every church in the city (i believe). You need to obtain a guide (found at any kiosk or supermarket) to know which procession is where and when, etc. All processions leave from their church, make their way through the downtown and towards the cathedral, then go back to their church. a procession ends with them placing the float down in it's place at their church where it won't be touched until the next year. Some churches that are far away from the downtown so their processions can last up to 12 hours. those poor men underneath the floats!
i saw my first procession last night. i didn't go seeking one out though, it came to me! i was with my friend marion at a bodega near my home, and one passed by. marion and i started snapping pictures like crazy, but unfortunately i can't show you any pics until the end of the week, when i will be able to convert everything to a disc.
anyway it is a very moving experience and some of the processions are en silenco, so you can hear a pin drop as they pass by. others are most joyful. you will hear people crying out "guapa! guapa!" (which means "beautiful") to the Virgen Mary.
Living in Seville, it is interesting to see the work that goes into preparing for Holy Week. I have witnessed many times the bands practicing their music in the street, or the men carrying a "practice float".
Some people are real Semana Santa- afecionados. I had to chuckle to myself in the weeks prior to Holy Week because in supermarkets they would play music from the bands and have big offers on Holy Week DVDs. One sweeping store promotion said "Special set! 8 DVDs plus 4 CDs of band music!" As to why someone would want to watch 8 DVDs of processions is beyond me. Don't get me wrong, the processions are interesting, but 8 DVDs and 4 CDs worth of it? come on!
Spring in Seville really has sprung, at it is amazing at the very least. The orange trees have blossomed, and the flowers, called azahar, smell amazing. and the entire city smells of this. also there are jasmine trees that have blossomed and they smell so good. in some parts of seville and in brenes, there are lemon trees. have you ever smelled a fresh lemon blossom before? absolutely amazing.
combine those smells with the smell of incense and candle wax, and its pretty magical.
anyway i will keep you updated on what i see this week. i look forward to having a week with nothing to do but hang out and wander about in my own city.
Hasta ahora!
Monday, March 3, 2008
Amazing Extremadura
Let me tell you a little about my trip this past weekend......
Early Thursday morning Lola (Spanish coworker), Diana (American coworker) and I hopped in Lola's car and took off for Extremadura. The countryside was beautiful- green and mountainous. We stopped in some tiny towns on the way, some with as little as 500 inhabitants. We took a walk through some of the countryside and stopped at the medieval town of Trujillo. I really enjoyed this city. It was a hilltown, with the castle of Trujillo at the highest point. I definetely recommend visiting this city if you ever get the chance.
Finally we reached our destination- a small mountain town of 2000 inhabitants called Aldeanueva de la Vera. It is an amazing little town surrounded by mountain streams and waterfalls. That evening we had dinner at one of the few village restaurants with some friends of Lola. I got to try some Extremaduran specialities- magro (pork in a sauce with fried peppers.....DELICIOUS!) and migas (little fried pieces of bread mixed with egg....I would compare it to dry stuffing).
Afterwards we went bar hopping and I got to know some of Lola's friends. I was particularly fond of two of her friends that were brothers- Jesus and Dani. They were so hilarious and energetic and they spoke excellent English (both have spent extended time in the US). Dani owns a tobacco farm in the area and seems to be well off. He also seemed to have a bit of power in the village....he was able to convince a bar to reopen at 2am just for us, etc. Diana and I started calling him "The Godfather", but he thought that sounded like a name for an older person (he's 33) so we called him "The Godcousin". He got a kick out of that.
We (about 10 of us) ended up all going back to Dani's house and dancing around until 5:30am!
The next day Diana went to Salamanca, a city a few hours north of us, but I stayed with Lola at her apartment. Lola's apartment was amazing! The view from the balcony was breathtaking....a picture-perfect view of the mountains.
We spent the day walking around the Aldeanueva de la Vera...we went to the highest point of the village and it was beautiful! There were lavender bushes everywhere, and cherry and almond trees were blossoming.....it was magical.
On Saturday I saw an amazing sight-a traditional village wedding that seemed to be right out of the movie "The Godfather"....the entire wedding party marching through the village with a band in tow. Lola told me that the groom and his mother (followed by friends, family and the band) march to the house of the family of the bride. They are basically picking her up to go the the church. It was a sight, I tell ya.
Since its such a small town, I was definetely the only foreigner there. In fact, it got around that I was there because on my last night in town I met a villager who said "so you are the American visitor they (the townspeople) have been talking about".
Yesterday, before we went back home to Seville, Lola took me around to see some of the other mountain towns. The towns Garganta de la Olla and Guijo were especially impressive and when I walked through the streets, I felt like I was in another century.
All in all it was an amazing trip and it was nice to get out of the city and breathe some fresh mountain air for a few days. I look forward to visiting that precious (and relatively unknown) area of Spain again soon!
Elections in Spain are happening this weekend so there is a ton of PP and PSOE propaganda EVERYWHERE. There is a debate between Zapatero (PSOE- the left party-currently in power) and Rajoy (PP-the right party) tonight. I may watch it, although the debates here aren't as interesting as the ones in the US. If you are unfamiliar with Spanish politics, there is a great article that was published by Newsweek about it that you can read here.
Early Thursday morning Lola (Spanish coworker), Diana (American coworker) and I hopped in Lola's car and took off for Extremadura. The countryside was beautiful- green and mountainous. We stopped in some tiny towns on the way, some with as little as 500 inhabitants. We took a walk through some of the countryside and stopped at the medieval town of Trujillo. I really enjoyed this city. It was a hilltown, with the castle of Trujillo at the highest point. I definetely recommend visiting this city if you ever get the chance.
Finally we reached our destination- a small mountain town of 2000 inhabitants called Aldeanueva de la Vera. It is an amazing little town surrounded by mountain streams and waterfalls. That evening we had dinner at one of the few village restaurants with some friends of Lola. I got to try some Extremaduran specialities- magro (pork in a sauce with fried peppers.....DELICIOUS!) and migas (little fried pieces of bread mixed with egg....I would compare it to dry stuffing).
Afterwards we went bar hopping and I got to know some of Lola's friends. I was particularly fond of two of her friends that were brothers- Jesus and Dani. They were so hilarious and energetic and they spoke excellent English (both have spent extended time in the US). Dani owns a tobacco farm in the area and seems to be well off. He also seemed to have a bit of power in the village....he was able to convince a bar to reopen at 2am just for us, etc. Diana and I started calling him "The Godfather", but he thought that sounded like a name for an older person (he's 33) so we called him "The Godcousin". He got a kick out of that.
We (about 10 of us) ended up all going back to Dani's house and dancing around until 5:30am!
The next day Diana went to Salamanca, a city a few hours north of us, but I stayed with Lola at her apartment. Lola's apartment was amazing! The view from the balcony was breathtaking....a picture-perfect view of the mountains.
We spent the day walking around the Aldeanueva de la Vera...we went to the highest point of the village and it was beautiful! There were lavender bushes everywhere, and cherry and almond trees were blossoming.....it was magical.
On Saturday I saw an amazing sight-a traditional village wedding that seemed to be right out of the movie "The Godfather"....the entire wedding party marching through the village with a band in tow. Lola told me that the groom and his mother (followed by friends, family and the band) march to the house of the family of the bride. They are basically picking her up to go the the church. It was a sight, I tell ya.
Since its such a small town, I was definetely the only foreigner there. In fact, it got around that I was there because on my last night in town I met a villager who said "so you are the American visitor they (the townspeople) have been talking about".
Yesterday, before we went back home to Seville, Lola took me around to see some of the other mountain towns. The towns Garganta de la Olla and Guijo were especially impressive and when I walked through the streets, I felt like I was in another century.
All in all it was an amazing trip and it was nice to get out of the city and breathe some fresh mountain air for a few days. I look forward to visiting that precious (and relatively unknown) area of Spain again soon!
Elections in Spain are happening this weekend so there is a ton of PP and PSOE propaganda EVERYWHERE. There is a debate between Zapatero (PSOE- the left party-currently in power) and Rajoy (PP-the right party) tonight. I may watch it, although the debates here aren't as interesting as the ones in the US. If you are unfamiliar with Spanish politics, there is a great article that was published by Newsweek about it that you can read here.
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